Marek Holecek's First Ascent on Sura Peak's Northwest Face

A video about the first ascent of the northwest face of Sura Peak (6,764 m) in Nepal's Himalayas by renowned climber Marek Holecek, alongside partner Matej Bernat, from May 19 to May 23, 2023, has now been released. This groundbreaking expedition marked the successful creation of a new route named Simply Beautiful, stretching over 1,500 meters and graded M6.

During that ascent, the climbers faced numerous obstacles during their ascent, including steep and loose sections that tested their resolve. Despite grappling with fatigue and extreme cold, Holecek and Bernat pushed through, showcasing their mental and physical endurance.

Upon reaching the summit, Holecek reflected on the grueling journey, expressing a mix of exhaustion and awe at the breathtaking Himalayan vistas surrounding them. The duo then embarked on a challenging descent, eventually reaching a small tea house where awaiting porters assisted them.

Holecek's post-ascend reflection captured the essence of their accomplishment, encapsulating both the hardships endured and the stunning beauty of the Himalayan landscape visible from Sura Peak. Their successful ascent adds another remarkable achievement to the legacy of mountaineering in Nepal's majestic Khumbu region.

About Marek Holecek

Marek Holeček (born 5 November 1974) is a Czech mountaineer, explorer, author and documentary filmmaker. Holeček received the 2018 Piolet d'Or award for his successful full ascent on the southwest face of Gasherbrum I with Zdeněk Hák, which he achieved in Alpine style. He has climbed mountains all around the world. Here let us look at his mountaineering achievements in the Himalayas of Nepal:

• May 2019 – Climbed 7321 m high Chamlang in 6 days with climbing partner Zdeněk Hák. 
• May 2018 – Climbed 6186 m Kyazo Ri with climbing partner Zdeněk Hák.
• May 2013 – Climbed 7343 m Talung in the Kanchenjunga region with climbing partner Zdeněk Hrubý. He received the nomination for the Piolets d'Or 2014 Prize for this feat.
• October – November 2005 – Climbed 6750 m Kyashar with climbing partner Jan Doudlebský.

About Piolets d'Or

The Piolets d'Or, known as the "Golden Ice Axe," is a prestigious mountaineering award established in 1992 by the Groupe de Haute Montagne (GHM) and previously co-founded with Montagnes Magazine. Recipients are honored with golden ice axes during an annual awards festival, recognizing their outstanding achievements in mountaineering and alpine climbing from the preceding year. Widely regarded as mountaineering's highest honor, the Piolets d'Or is often likened to the "Oscars of mountaineering."