Sustainable Summit: Gurung Duo's First Ascent of Khumjungar Himal

Prakash Gurung and Yukta G have returned to Tange, achieving a first ascent and delivering a significant message to the climbing world: a cleaner, more sustainable approach to conquering Nepal's mountains is feasible.

These climbers were the inaugural individuals to reach the summit of Khumjungar Himal, standing at 6,759 meters in the upper Mustang region.

They described their demanding voyage, which involved braving frigid temperatures and spending several days trekking and climbing, in a statement released shortly after their accomplishment. They have uploaded a video of their summit experience on Instagram and plan to provide a comprehensive report upon arriving back in Kathmandu. Despite the harsh winter conditions, the two climbers confessed that ascending alpine style and setting foot on an unexplored peak was "tremendously enjoyable."

Both Prakash and Yukta are members of the Gurung ethnic group, which shares a Tibetan origin with the Sherpas and resides in mountainous regions. The Gurung people predominantly inhabit the Annapurna area, in addition to various districts such as Manang, Dolpo, Kaksi, Lamjung, Gorkha, Parbat, Tanahun, Syangja — including Mustang, where Khumjungar Himal is situated.

Prakash disclosed that they have known each other since 2015 and work as guides for Himalayan expeditions. "In 2020, we resolved to explore new peaks within our province. We endeavored to employ an alpine style to minimize waste left behind in the mountainous environment."

Prakash went on to explain that traditional climbing techniques employing fixed ropes generate copious waste annually, resulting in severe pollution within these pristine environments. By demonstrating successful climbs like theirs on Khumjungar Himal, they aspire to encourage sustainable mountaineering tourism across various Nepali regions that could derive benefit from such ventures.