A First For Nepali Woman : Everest-Lhotse Traverse Conquered

Gorkha native, Nangsal Choedon Lama, etches her name in history as the first Nepali woman to endure an astonishing traverse from Everest Base Camp to the peak of Mt. Everest and onto Mt. Lhotse in a spring season. 

On May 23, in a remarkable display of fortitude, Lama crested the summit of Everest at 2:15 AM and proceeded to conquer Mt. Lhotse at 4:30 PM, rounding off the challenging expedition back to Base Camp in an impressive period of 47 hours. Embarking on her historic journey on May 22, 2024, at exactly 4:02 AM, she returned triumphantly to Base Camp by 3:00 am on May 24.

In the previous year, Lama had successfully scaled Mt. Manaslu; an achievement that sparked within her the courage and inspiration to tackle the world's tallest peak and its neighboring giant in one arduous push.

Originating from Samagaun village, Lama has previously served as a dedicated porter for international climbers. She envisions her feats as a catalyst for motivation amongst the young people in her district, aiming to demonstrate that through seizing opportunities and with persistent effort, any dream can become attainable against all odds. "I am filled with immense pride to announce my successful ascents of both Mt. Everest and Mt. Lhotse within a time frame of less than two days," expressed an elated Lama. 

Being the first Nepalese woman to accomplish such an endeavor was not without strain and obstacles; nevertheless, she was buoyed by relentless ambition and desire that propelled her to both summits. Lama's experience stands as a vivid example of what dedication, thorough preparation, and human spirit can achieve. "It is my hope that my own story will stir inspiration amongst many individuals, particularly the younger generation," she stated with conviction.

What is Everest-Lhotse Traverse?

The Everest-Lhotse Traverse refers to a high-altitude mountaineering challenge that involves summiting both Mount Everest and Lhotse in a single expedition without descending to lower camps in between. This traverse is highly challenging due to the extreme altitude, physical demands, and technical difficulty of the routes. Completing the Everest-Lhotse Traverse requires excellent acclimatization, strong mountaineering skills, and a high level of endurance.

Mount Everest and Lhotse are adjacent peaks in the Himalayas, connected by the South Col. Everest, at 8,848 meters (29,029 feet), is the highest mountain in the world, while Lhotse, at 8,516 meters (27,940 feet), is the fourth highest. The traverse typically begins with the ascent of Everest via its standard route (often the Southeast Ridge), and after summiting Everest, climbers descend to the South Col before continuing up the standard route to the summit of Lhotse.

Several top climbers have eyed the Everest-Lhotse Traverse in the past decade. In 2013, the late Ueli Steck, along with Simone Moro and Jonathan Griffith, aimed to give the Traverse a shot, but some rope-fixing issues brought that expedition to a premature end. Steck returned in 2017 to mount another attempt with a different partner, Tenji Sherpa, but never got a chance to try: He died in a fall while acclimatizing on Nuptse.