Phunjo Lama Sets New Record for Fastest Female Ascent of Everest

In an extraordinary display of endurance and speed, Nepalese mountaineer Phunjo Lama has smashed the record for the fastest female ascent of Mount Everest. Lama completed the grueling climb in a mere 14 hours and 31 minutes last Thursday, making it only part of her effort to retake the title she once held. Climbers traditionally take several days to ascend the towering 29,032-foot peak, often resting at various camps along the way to acclimatize. 

Earlier in the month, while at base camp, Lama confidently predicted on Facebook that she would surmount "the Mother Goddess," as she calls Everest.

Back in 2018, Lama set a record with a 39-hour and 6-minute ascent, which was subsequently surpassed by Hong Kong's Ada Tsang Yin-hung in 2021, who completed her climb in 25 hours and 50 minutes. Aiming to reclaim her spot at the top, Lama embarked on this season's climb informed by a premeditated strategy, noted Shiva Bahadur Sapkota, general secretary of the Everest Summiteers Association. Beginning her ascent from base camp at 3:52 pm on Wednesday, she reached the summit by 6:23 am on Thursday.

The official timekeeping method for Everest climbers counts the full round trip: ascending to the summit and descending safely back to base camp. By this count, Lama established a new record time of 24 hours and 26 minutes upon her Thursday afternoon return. Typically, climbers take several days to complete such a feat.

According to her brother Sonam Lama, speaking from their home village in Nepal's remote Tsum Valley, "She likes to be faced with fear." Coinciding with Buddha Jayanti—a significant festival celebrating Buddha's birth—Ms. Lama's achievement holds an added layer of significance as Sonam pointed out that his sister aimed to promote world peace through her accomplishment. Recollecting their childhood experiences, he shared how Ms. Lama used to trek high altitudes to spend time with their yak-herding grandfather.

Complementing Ms. Lama's success is Kami Rita Sherpa's milestone earlier that same Wednesday; the veteran climber marked his unprecedented 30th ascent of Everest just ten days after setting his previous record of 29 climbs.

Despite dealing with congested paths and a narrow window of favorable weather during her climb, Ms. Lama was greeted by clear skies upon reaching the summit. Her brother recalled windy conditions earlier in her journey but favorable weather at its pinnacle.

In a remarkable feat of endurance, Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa, a Nepalese climber, set an unparalleled record in 2003 for the quickest climb to Mount Everest's summit, scaling the peak in just 10 hours and 56 minutes. This accomplishment came into the spotlight once more when only a day before Ms. Lama achieved her milestone, fellow countryman and illustrious Sherpa mountain guide Kami Rita achieved his 30th summit of the world's highest mountain – a new record.

However, tragic news accompanies the distinguished achievements as the past week has seen at least five climbers succumb to Everest. The deceased included two Mongolians, one Nepalese, one Romanian, and one Kenyan whose Nepalese guide is currently unaccounted for.

Adding to the sobering accounts are a British man and his Nepalese guide who have gone missing on the notorious Tibet-China face of Mount Everest. The situation offered a grim outlook, informed by high-altitude experts that any chance of finding the pair alive was slim due to the extreme altitude and precipitous terrain. Search efforts from neither helicopters nor ground rescuers have successfully approached their last known location.

Amidst these somber tidings, there emerges a story of inspiration. Ms. Lama, originating from Chhokangparo—a secluded hamlet in Manaslu's Tsum Valley—stands as an embodiment of determination and hope. The single mother in her thirties has honed her climbing skills both in Nepal’s Himalayas and Switzerland’s Alps. With aspirations beyond her achievements, she aims to inspire and mentor Nepal's women and girls to pursue their dreams. "Through my climbing," she stated, "I wish to empower women in Nepal and inspire other young girls to chase their dreams and show them that anything is possible."