Lhotse Middle, often referred to as Lho Tse Middle or Lhotse Intermediate, is a secondary peak within the Lhotse mountain range. As the last peak classified as an eight-thousander, it boasts an impressive height of 8,413 meters or 27,592 feet. You can find this peak situated within the Khumjung Village Development Committee under the Khumbu Pasang Lhamu rural municipality in Solukhumbu District, part of Nepal's Eastern Development Region.
Nestled within the Mahalangur Himalayan Range, Lhotse Middle sits between its parent peak, Lhotse (8,516 meters or 27,940 feet), and another secondary peak, Lhotse Shar (8,383 meters or 27,503 feet). Expeditions frequently undertake the challenging climb up its slopes; on average, it takes around 60 days to summit.
The first successful ascent of Lhotse Middle took place on May 23, 2001. Climbers Sergei Timofeev, Alexei Bolotov, Piotr Kouznetsov, and Evgeni Vinogradski worked together to achieve this feat. To embark on an expedition here, first fly into Lukla before traversing through Jorsalle, Namche, Khumjung, Pheriche, Lobuche, Gorakshep—and finally—onto Base Camp. Covering a total distance of 51.1 km through Pheriche during their acclimation process before facing the expedition length of 12.9 km.
Nearby Lobuche lies just 8.3 km away from Lhotse Middle and has amenities such as Namche's police and army posts (34.1 km distance), Pheriche's health post (14.9 km distance), and Lukla's tourist post (51.1 km distance).
Climbing Lhotse Middle involves payment of royalty fees that differ according to the season and nationality. For Nepalese climbers, rates are set at Rs. 2,500 for Summer and Winter, Rs. 5,000 for Autumn, and Rs. 10,000 for Spring. However, foreigners pay a higher amount: $450 in Summer and Winter, $900 in Autumn, and $1,800 in Spring.
While forming the pinnacle of the immense horseshoe-shaped arc within the Everest massif, Lhotse Middle is not as widely climbed as its more renowned neighbors due to its challenging nature and unique location. Nonetheless, mountaineers seeking adventure on less-traveled paths through the Himalayas often find the rewards well worth their efforts.